There are a few basic tweaks that are both cheap and easy and can net you some more horsepower. Much of this stuff is pretty basic maintenance, and if your bike is nearly new, or immaculately-maintained, then they might not make much difference. But, if you're like us and ride a bike that's a few years old and a little worn at the edges, there's every chance it has lost a few ponies from its peak output.
For just a few bucks you can spend a relaxing weekend in your garage with some brews and you'll end up with a smoother, cleanerrunning bike that gets more power and better gas mileage.
Tires
It's such a no-brainer we're actually a little embarrassed to mention it. But, judging by the number of e-mail queries that come in daily, plus the horror stories we've encountered on the street, it's worth repeating.
Make sure you have the right tires on your bike and that they're set to the right pressures! It couldn't be simpler, yet people screw it up all the time. If your tires are under-inflated, then every time the wheel turns a larger-than-normal part of the tire is distorted into a flatter contact patch. Distorting extra rubber takes energy-energy from your bike's engine-and converts it into heat. Power that should be catapulting you out of a corner is actually being wasted heating up your tire.
Check your tire pressures before riding when they're still cold. Use the recommended pressures in the manual, or on your tire manufacturer's website. If you're riding on track, you can run tires a little softer, but for the street you really don't want to run low pressures - trust us! Steering will feel sluggish and you'll be robbing your bike of its full potential.
Air filter
Your engine needs an air filter to keep abrasive dust, grit and water out of the combustion chamber. Most bikes use a pleated paper filter, and if these are neglected they can get clogged up. This means the engine has to work harder to draw air in. A dirty filter can also affect the air/fuel mixture on carbureted bikes, making the engine run rich, wasting gas and reducing peak power output.
A new one only costs a few bucks, but blowing out the dirty one with compressed air is free, and can take much of the dust and crud out. This will allow the motor to breathe easier and get more oxygen flowing, and that means more power
Chain and sprockets
Here's another no-brainer, but don't laugh. In fact, after examining your own ride check out some of the others at bike night-you'll find some proper nightmares.
A worn, dried out and badly-adjusted final drive chain will soak up a heap of power. "Little and often" is the way to go with lubrication, and a regular, deep-clean with kerosene or chain cleaner will get all that power-sapping gunge, grit and grime out. Missing sprocket teeth, a kinked and rusted chain or one caked with filth are all extremely detrimental in transferring power from the countershaft to the rear wheel.
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